24/7 Emergency Glass Repair
Broken window, smashed door or a break-in. Board-up and make-safe any hour, glass replacement to follow.
Learn more →The two different jobs
The first is protective glass: a sheet laid over a timber table, desk, dresser or sideboard so it stops taking rings, scratches and sun damage. It sits fully supported on the surface below, it is usually 6mm to 8mm, and it is often laminated or annealed rather than toughened because the surface underneath carries the load. Felt or clear bumpers go under it so it does not sit hard against the timber.
The second is a structural top: the glass is the table. It spans between a base or a frame, so thickness goes up and toughened glass becomes the sensible specification. Dining tables, coffee tables, outdoor settings and reception desks all fall here.
Everything is decided before the glass is made
Shape, size, corner radius, edge finish and any holes are all set at the measure and executed during fabrication. Toughened glass cannot be cut, drilled or reworked once it has been through the furnace. That includes the umbrella hole in an outdoor top and any fixing holes in a shelf. It is worth being fussy at the measuring stage because there is no adjusting afterwards.
Round tops need the diameter and the centre accurately; rectangular tops need the corner radius, because a square corner and a 25mm radius look completely different and chip differently in use.
Beyond table tops
- Shelving. Cut-to-size glass shelves for bookcases, display cabinets, wall brackets and retail fixtures. Toughened is standard for anything carrying weight.
- Cabinet and furniture glass. Replacement panels for display cabinets, dressers, wardrobes and sideboards, in clear, obscure or antique-look finishes.
- Picture frame glass. Cut to size, and low-reflect options for anything that gets hung opposite a window.
- Oven and heater glass. Cracked heat-resistant panels in kitchen ovens and lounge heaters, replaced for a fraction of the price of the appliance.
- Bench and counter protection in shops and offices, which takes a lot of abuse and is cheap to replace compared with the counter.
Getting it made
Small items are often cheapest if you supply accurate measurements or the old piece rather than paying for a site visit, and a template is the safest approach for anything shaped or irregular. Larger pieces are measured on site, delivered and positioned, because a 12mm toughened dining top is heavier than it looks.
Related pages: mirrors cut to size for the same furniture, splashbacks for kitchen surfaces, and the cost guide for how thickness and edgework move the price.
More services
Explore our other services
Window Repair and Replacement
Reglazing timber and aluminium windows, plus custom awning, double-hung, sliding and louvre units.
Learn more →Shopfront Glass
Laminated shopfront panels, entry doors and after-hours board-ups so the shop still opens in the morning.
Learn more →Shower Screens
Framed, semi-frameless and frameless screens in toughened safety glass, made to the opening you actually have.
Learn more →Glass Splashbacks
Toughened 6mm splashbacks for kitchens, laundries and bathrooms, colour-matched and templated on site.
Learn more →Double Glazing
Insulated glass units for Melbourne's cold snaps and hot northerlies. Retrofit or full window replacement.
Learn more →Mirrors
Cut-to-size bathroom, wardrobe, gym and studio mirrors with polished or bevelled edges.
Learn more →Glass Balustrades
Frameless and semi-framed balustrades for stairs, balconies and decks, built to the fall height rules.
Learn more →Glass Roofs and Skylights
Overhead glazing, awnings and skylights in laminated glass, because overhead glass has its own rules.
Learn more →Pool Fencing
Frameless and semi-frameless glass pool fences built to the Victorian barrier rules.
Learn more →Glass Doors
Hinged, sliding, stacker and bi-fold glazed doors, plus reglazing the door you already have.
Learn more →Fly Screens
Pleated, sliding and fixed insect screens in extruded aluminium with PVC-coated mesh.
Learn more →Smart Glass
Switchable privacy glass that goes from clear to opaque, for partitions, consult rooms and bathrooms.
Learn more →Scratch and Graffiti Removal
Polishing scratched and acid-tagged glass instead of replacing it, where the glass can take it.
Learn more →
FAQs
Frequently asked questions
What thickness should a glass table top be?
For a protective top over an existing timber surface, 6mm to 8mm is typical. For a top that is the table surface itself, supported only at the edges or on a base, 10mm to 12mm toughened is the usual specification. Thickness follows span and support: the less support underneath, the thicker the glass has to be.
Does a table top need to be toughened?
It depends what it is doing. A protective sheet lying on a solid timber top is fully supported and often does not need to be. A top that is the structural surface, especially with children in the house, should be toughened so that a failure produces blunt granules rather than large shards. A glazier will call it based on support and use.
Which edge finish should I pick?
A flat polished edge is clean and modern. A pencil polish is slightly rounded and the most comfortable to lean on, which suits a dining or coffee table. A bevel puts an angled border around the perimeter and reads more traditional. All three are done before toughening and none can be changed afterwards.
Can you match a top for an old outdoor setting?
Usually. Bring the old top or its measurements, including the position and diameter of any umbrella hole and any corner radius. Outdoor tops should be toughened because of temperature swings and the chance of impact, and the umbrella hole is drilled before toughening, so getting the position right at the measure is critical.
Free, no-obligation